Mort Report Extra: It Ain’t Chopped Liver
PARIS — Our world is awash in crises as the holidays approach, but spare a thought for André Daguin, the chef whose gastronomic gift of foie gras chaud lifts my spirits even when a despot-in-waiting and craven senators try to turn America into an unprincipled boobocracy.
Daguin died this week at 84 in Auch, the ancient Gascony town west of Toulouse he made famous with creations in his Michelin-starred kitchen at the Hotel de France. He is known best for magret de canard, sliced rare duck. But his warm foie gras was hardly chopped liver.
Caesar famously noted that Gaul is divided in three parts. It still is today: butter up north, olive oil in Provence and goose grease or duck fat in the southwest. For celebrated Gascon plats de resistance, duck is the fowl of choice. And Daguin was the duke of duckdom.
Finishing university, he headed to Scotland to study law. But as often used to happen among old-school French restaurateur clans, he was soon back in Auch spending 18-hour days in local markets and his kitchen.
Daguin took over the family's hotel-restaurant in 1959 back when duck was a bit player, mostly potted in confit de canard. He grilled succulent breasts like steak, thin and rare. After he added his green peppercorn sauce in 1965, international foodies beat a path to his door.
He could get fancy, skewering foie gras with sea scallops or serving it with langoustines. He made flash-frozen prune and Armagnac ice cream with liquid nitrogen. He earned a Michelin star within a year and then a second one a decade later.